Archive for the ‘Tips’ Category

Custom Scenic Bases   1 comment

Recently I assembled Lashers and Scion for my Brood warband.  The Lashers are sculpted climbing up bits of rubbled buildings.  This made the models look unusual when just glued down to a plain base.  I decided I would try my hand at filling out the base with some “junk”.  I used the following things:

– A chunk cut out of a Tim Horton’s gift card (remaining balance unknown).
– A plastic plug from an Ikea furniture set, intended to fill a drill hole where a bolt would be.
– A grey drywall screw plug.
– Some tiny metal rings from a clothing rivet repair kit.
– Several pieces of sprue from a GW plastic kit.
– The pour holes from the plastic Menoth starter i purchased recently.

I visualized the various parts as being scrap from recent battles (specifically against the CORE) and leavings from the operation that long ago left the planet.  The chunk of card was cut into an odd shape and drilled with a few holes to look like an armour plate that had bullet holes in it.  The plug had thin flanges on it that looked like a CPU heat sink so I cut it down into a square and damaged some of the flanges so it would look like a generator/engine block/processor or whatever.  The grey drywall plug I bisected and the cap became something that looked like a tire rim and the shaft became a fairly interesting looking robotic spine.  The tiny rings were cut in half and glued down side by side to look like a giant spring buried in the sand or possibly a metal ribcage.  The chunks of sprue were cut down into rocks and a long “metal” or “stone” beam.  And finally, the pour holes from the Menoth kits were trimmed and became barrels.

Once I got all the junk glues down onto the bases it was very hard to look at what I had done and be able to say; “once primed that is going to look like what I intended and not just a pile of crap I glued to the base.”  I decided that to help assist with the look of realism I would add grit to the bases.  Something I NEVER do.  I paid Justin a visit at his home to get in a game and hopefully do up the bases.  Unfortunately we both forgot.  In a stroke of luck Rob came by last night and I asked him to bring along his basing kit.  He gave me a quick run down of how to go about applying sand and gravel flock to a base and then I went ahead and did the three Dark Age models and my Menoth starter.

This morning after the glue had dried completely and the bases were already looking great I applied a pretty thick coat of Vallejo Black Surface Primer, the brush on variety.  I am very happy with the end result…and here it is:

Lasher Bases

Unfortunately I didn’t take a good picture of the bases at each stage of the process.  I am going to do something similar for the rest of my Brood so I will document that process more closely with pictures of the source parts, how I cut them down, the raw base, flocking, and priming.

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Lesson of the day.   3 comments

The #1 thing the Citadel Spray Gun taught me? …
There are no short cuts.
Looks like I will be using a brush to base coat my lizardmen.

On The Workbench   4 comments

I am borrowing this post concept from the other guys here and giving a heads up about what I have on my work table right now.

Alternate Rasputina and a Silent One.

Rasputina is assembled and has been given a light prime.  I have very lightly glued her to her base as I think I will be moving her over to a Dragon Forge scenic base.  I like this Alt model a lot better than the original.  It is still flat and almost one-piece but this one seems to have a lot of “motion” sculpted in.  The old one looked a bit like someone just striking a pose.  Madonna’s Vogue comes to mind when I look at it.  As you can probably guess I will be fielding the Alt from now on.  What to do with the original…?

Slann Mage-Priest Palanquin

Wild Green Fiendy Liquid

This monstrosity has been sitting on my shelf in a semi-built state for a long long time!  I managed to get 90% of the way through the build but the gaps were starting to bother me so I took a stab at using Green Stuff.  That was a disaster.  Green Stuff is the devils work.  It sticks to your fingers but not metal.  So you need to use, get this, spit or Vaseline to get it to not stick to you which makes it even less likely to adhere to metal.  It cures fairly quickly so if you don’t know what you are doing it starts getting crumbly before you even have it applied to the model.  It is ridiculous.  I wept that day.  I blame Green Stuff for my tendency to drink while doing hobby related things!  Fast forward to mid-last week and a quick stop in at the Scarborough GW to grab some paints.  I notice a bottle on the shelf behind the cash labelled “Liquid Green Stuff”.  I talk to the guy about it.  Ask various questions that he doesn’t really have answers for.  Get him to pop one open and show me the viscosity (about the consistency of, uh, Mayonnaise?).  And end up buying a bottle just to give it a shot.  The verdict is still out but I did get the seams filled (mostly) on my palanquin.  I also used it to fill a ridiculous gap in the neck of one of my Salamaders (see below).

Salamander

Gap was behind the neck frill.

Buying the Liquid Green Stuff reminded me of my Salamanders, I remembered that at least one of them did not fit together well.  I pulled it out of the figure case the other day and got right to work.  The gap in the side of its neck looked like it had been made by a band saw, a large smooth rectangular cut.  I didn’t know specifically how to tackle it so I just started loading up a brush and pushing the filler into the crack, feathering the edges where possible.  Each attempt I let dry for a few hours before applying another coat.  After the last coat I let it dry for almost 24 hours before I took a look at it.  Pretty messy looking but between a file and my hobby knife I was able to clean-up it up to a point where I was confident priming it.  After priming it looked fine to me.

Fiend of Slaanesh

I took out this model last week to see if I could quickly put it together before my game with Justin.  What a laugh.  There are lots and lots of pieces to this model.  All I’ve managed to do is pull out one piece at a time and clean them up.  I have lots left to do and another full Fiend sitting in its blister waiting.  Ugh.

Freebooter’s Fate Amazon Starter

I threatened to Justin that I would grab out the models and get them all finished before him if he didn’t post something to this blog.  He didn’t believe me.  Rightly so.  They are still sitting, untouched, in their box.  I love the look of the models and am pretty interested in trying out the game but, despite all that, I can’t seem to bring myself to take them out and start working on them.  Too much going on I guess, hobby and otherwise.

Lastly, and related to Liquid Green Stuff again, I leave you with this photo:

Steg

I hate to paint #3   2 comments

So I have been struggling with finding a technique for painting fire.  Following a suggestion from Argentbadger I took a stab at working up from yellow and am quite pleased with the results.  First off, I know the Gamin are supposed to be some sort of solid, like Lava or Magma, and wouldn’t be coloured like this.  This assumes that the Gamin’s “heat source” is at their feet.  Just imagine that they are a spout of flame given shape and this look could work.

The wash technique.

Here are the details.  I gave this new Risen model a generous base coat of Golden Yellow.  Then a light wash of Baal Red picking out only the highest areas.  I felt that it started to look kinda junky at this point so I changed focus and gave it a generous red wash around its head.  After drying I washed it again, head and shoulders.  Twice more getting progressively lower on the model.  During each wash I focused a lot on the head to get it as dark as I could.  The photo above is after the last wash but before the model was completely dry.

I could try to implement the same technique over smaller areas, leaving the individual recesses of the model yellow but I don’t think I am quite ready for careful work at that scale yet.  Maybe I could do some work on the base to support the idea of fire coming out of the ground.

I an not 100% convinced that I should have finished by very lightly dry brushing the red.  It seemed to dull it down quite a bit.  I will probably give his head one more wash to liven it up.

After a light white dry brushing.

Anyhow, the next big challenge will be to reproduce these results on an actual Fire Gamin model.  Something tells me that will be easier said than done.

Okay, on to other things….

Kaeris

I’ll start from the end.  Here is where I have gotten her to:

Kaeris mostly base coated

Fairly straightforward stuff here.  To bring her up to this state I used a curry’s #0 tapered flatbrush and a Reaper Pro #0 detail brush.  I blocked in all the metal on her torso.  Boltgun Metal for the backpack and wing mechanism and Shining Gold for the feathers.  Then painted in her skin with Elf Flesh.  I switched over to a Reaper Pro #2 flat brush and blocked in the exterior of her cloak with Fortress Grey.  For the interior I used Codex Grey and a combination of all three previous brushes to get into nooks and to easily coat flat areas.  Last thing I did was lay down some Scorched Brown Graveyard Earth on her pants with the #0 detail brush.

For the base I started at a greyish colour…whatever it was Justin had base coated it with before he gave it to me.  I then gave it a light coat of Fortress Grey and a wash of Badab Black.  Once it was dry I gave the areas between the rocks another wash to darken them up.  I dry brushed on some more grey and finished with a light application of Thraka Green wash.  Not sure I like the look of the green.  I was hoping it would suggest moss or mildew on the rubble.  I’ll work at it some more later.  I did the whole base with:

Stumpy the P3 drybrush

This work was spread out over a few days so, alas, no booze summary.  I will inform you that I did most of this work without drinking any beer.  If you think this seems to be better quality work then before I can assure you that it has nothing to do with the absence of beer, nothing.

I am still obsessed with Manchester Orchestra’s album Simple Math but this time I listened to a bunch of other stuff as well.  Songs of note:  Back and to the Left by Texas is the Reason, The Name of a Street by Metroschifter, and Sleep Is Wrong by Sleepytime Gorilla Museum.

Next time: Painting the real Fire Gamin. Also, Kaeris may get an all over wash.

Thanks for reading.

Basing… and Priming…   4 comments

Let’s see if I can avoid messing up the formatting on this one.

When making bases, I’ve discovered that the big metal runners that a lot of metal bitz come on make great scrap on a base.  just drop a few on the base (bend/break to fit if necessary), cover most of the base with super glue (careful, very easy to get stuck!), and dip in model sand (I use a mix of sand and larger gravel).

As primer doesn’t dry properly when applied below room temperature, and family tend to abhor the smell (not to mention it’s bad for pets/children/pet rocks, etc); I discovered a great place to apply it indoors.

The bathroom!  Most bathrooms have a fan to vent the dangerous fumes, and the primer doesn’t stick to tile easily (but good aim saves on primer, and don’t quote me on the tile thing).  Keep the door closed, and Bob’s your uncle (I always thought that phrase was weird, because my Uncle is named Bob).

I highly recommend Testors 1249 Flat Black as primer.  It’s cheap, and it’s fairly difficult to over-prime with it.  I also highly recommend their 1260 Dullcote for sealer.  After sealing, it’s best to use a little gloss vanish on shiny bits, varying the finishes on the model tends to look good.

A word of warning, Dullcote smells very strongly.

This is just advice/ideas.  I don’t claim responsibility for any damage to self, family members, friends, pets (rock or otherwise), furniture, etc.

Posted February 1, 2012 by tatterdash in Tips

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